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Plants

Building an Inexpensive Greenhouse
By Chris Pratt

It is late fall, the leaves are gone, and the nights are cold. The garden has been bedded down for the winter with a green manure crop to prepare it for spring. You come in with an armload of wood, take off your winter coat and set down to a fresh green salad with loose leaf lettuce, spinach, shallots, basil and tomatos. All picked fresh moments ago. Welcome to the Greenhouse!
One cannot say enough about how nice it is to have a greenhouse. Prior to building it, we never had a season where jalepenos and cayenne peppers (our passion at the dinner table) would come to full maturity. Kim learned how to make many jars of green tomato salsa (by necessity). The growing season in Western Washington State is barely adequate to grow a successful garden.Our greenhouse is a necessity rather than a nicety (we just didn't know it prior to building it).

The Design

We saw an article in Countryside Magazine that talked of using welded wire stock panels (wires welded to form a fence partition, see Figure 1) with both edges held down to form a quansot hut style greenhouse. This design called for pounding re-bar into the ground and wiring the edges of the stock panels to the re-bar. The top of one panel is then wired to the bottom of the next and so on. At the ends, you use some sort of framing to stiffen. Everything is then covered with translucent fiberglass panels.

This is how we planned it and how we based our purchases, but as so many of our projects go, quite different from what we built. The first thing that had to go was re-bar. The place we picked for the greenhouse, had a substance that while appearing to be dirt, is really closer to concrete. The re-bar lost the contest and would bend rather than be pounded in! The second problem was headroom. The stock panels would not be high enough if they were flush with the ground. The last was the fibreglass panels. The fellow at the building supply talked us out of this as he felt they would be cracking constantly at the place they were wired on. On to plan B.

 How we built it

What we built was actually a frame of 4x4s to support the wire structure. These were placed in a "basement" on pier blocks. The stock panels were attached to the frame, the ends framed, and greenhouse plastic placed over the entire structure.

The process began by scraping out an 8 1/2 x 22 foot hole approximately 12 inches deep using out loader. Then we leveled it by hand. We placed the pier blocks where they would appear to provide the greatest support and created a 8 x 20 square of 4x4s at just above ground level (each 4x4 was attached to the next by steel plates and screws). This 4x4 frame was nailed to the pier block's steel bracket.

The frame being completed, we got out the bolt cutters and cut off the little ends sticking out on the stock panels (see Fig. 1). We then laid the stock panels out so that one end was flush with one side of the 4x4 frame. This end was nailed down using giant fencing staples (we did not drive these home at this point so that we could make any adjustments that might be necessary). The BIG MOMENT. We made the first bowed section by one of us pushing the free end towards the center (see Fig. 2).


The free side was now nailed to the other side of the frame and viola... we had something that resembled a structure. We repeated this procedure for 5 stock panels using baling wire to wire each one to the next until we had something similar to Fig 3.


Using all those old scraps of 2x4s that are left over from projects, we framed the ends. The north end was given a special treat, 2 sections of 1/2 inch plywood (something we avoid using since it cant be milled) with holes cut out for louver vents and a fan. The south end got a screen door cut down to about 5 1/2 feet and 2 louver vents. The entire structure was covered with a professional greenhouse plastic.

To seal in the "basement" we bought sections of a type of board that contains concrete. Using a worm drive skil saw we cut these boards in strips to go from the ground (down in the hole) up to the edge of the 4x4s. These were then sealed at the top with a sealer, and backfilled at the bottom with dirt. We then filled the entire interior with about 6 inches cedar chips.

Water

Though running water would be nice, we decided to use a 50 gallon food grade olive barrel to hold the water we use. This has to be filled once in a while but it has the advantage of storing heat (it is a dark gray color). We purchased a plastic valve, a section of pipe with threads on both ends and some plastic nuts to go on it. We cut a hole the size of the pipe, put a nut and o-ring on both the inside and the outside of the hole. The we screwed the valve on the end that protrudes.

Since the barrel spigot is at the bottom, we have an old cable spool that we set it on. It was free and is strong enough to hold the barrel when it is full. The bottom section of the spool doubles as storage for all the little tools we keep for greenhouse gardening.

Heat

We limped by for sometime with a small thermostatically controlled electric heater. Even during the summer there were occasions when the cool of the night would allow the temperature to drop below acceptable limits. We are in the process of installing a propane heater (non-vented) and a large tank. This should be the most effective method of keeping the greenhouse warm. We also purchased a cover that can be placed over the entire structure in the evenings and even left on during really cold spells. It reduces the light by a small amount but provides excellent insulation. While this may sound like a lot of bother, it is well worth the effort when you see the results.

Light

We are using Halide Track lights to extend the daylight. To achieve coverage of the entire growing area required two lights and tracks. These make a full pass every 40 minutes. The downside of this is the cost. Each bulb is 75 dollars. With the short days of winter, we would not be able to keep the peppers blooming without them.

Cooling

The first morning we had the greenhouse complete and covered, the temperature soared to 120 inside. We realized that without good cooling, we had simply created a solar oven. We installed a vent in roof, 4 solar-hydraulic vents in the ends, and a fan in the north end.

The vents are really inexpensive for what they do. They have a hydraulic fluid that opens and closes them based on temperature. No motors, pumps, or electricity, just very sensitive fluid. These ran about 14 dollars apiece. We made covers for the vents that can be put on at night so that no heat can escape through the louvers.

The fan is built for greenhouse use. This is important because the moisture can ruin an electric motor. There are louvers that open when the fan is on. It is hooked to a thermostat that turns it on when the temperature reaches 70 degrees. We found that we must open the glass in the screen door to allow the volume of air required by the fan. The small vents are insufficient to avoid a low pressure situation.

Growing Boxes and Tables

Plants are set on tables in the greenhouse instead of the floor so that warm air can circulate below them. These tables are typically called "benches". After looking at expensive benches in several mail-order catalogs, and after looking at more benches in books checked out from the library, we built our own benches out of used lumber. We purchased white plastic latice for the top of the benches. The tops can't be solid... they need to let air and water through. We built a total of three 8 foot long benches. Two were set on one side of the greenhoues, one on the other. On the side of the greenhoues with only one bench, we built a 9 foot by 4 foot raised bed (also out of used lumber).

We also built four "growing boxes" especially for raising salad vegetables. The boxes are made of used wood and are about 24 inches by 16 inches, and about 6 inches deep. In the first box we planted lettuce, spinach and shallots. We planted the second box 3 weeks later... the third box 3 weeks after that... and the fourth box 3 weeks after that. By the time you have planted the fourth box, the first box is ready to eat and provides about 3 weeks worth of salads for us. We then replant it and move on to eating the second box which is now ready to eat. And so on, we cycle through the salad boxes in a continues eat-plant cycle.

Crops

In the past we have grown the following crops in our greenhoues:

Cost

While we ended up investing quite a bit on our greenhouse (this is relative, many people spend more on a new TV), we have not even approached the cost of buying a pre-fabricated shell. Our money is tied up in equipment to make the greenhouse a year-round productive garden rather than being tied up in the basic structure. The lights, heating, and cooling represent the majority of the cost. If the costs seem restrictive, remember that you will pay the same money over a year to get fresh organic produce during the off-season. For us, hot peppers, sweet peppers, and tomatos alone can nearly justify the cost. To go a step further, the greenhouse can produce income buy selling off culled plants or starts at the beginning of growing season. The size of our greenhouse provides ample produce for us. If we were to add two more stock panel sections, the extra space could be used to grow produce for local markets, and this is without any additional costs (beyond building the structure).

Many components in our greenhouse can be obtained second hand for free or nearly nothing. These are:



Making a Compost Pile

A compost pile should be made of a convenient size, usually not less that 10 feet square (100 square feet) and 3 to 5 feet high. The top should be left flat or with a slight depression in the center to catch rain or added water. Too much water eliminates air and slows the decay process.

One way suggested in building the pile is to make a layer of leaves, straw, grass clippings, and other organic materials 1 foot deep, wet down and pack. Spread a layer of manure 4 to 6 inches deep over this layer of wet material. Then spread up to 5 pounds of ground rock phosphate or 1 quart of raw bone meal per 100 square feet, and 1 pound of ground limestone.

Instead of the rock phosphate and bone meal, you could use 5 pounds of a complete organic fertilizer such as Fertrell per 100 square feet. Also, a layer of topsoil is sometimes used.

Then continue to repeat the process until the pile has reached 3 to 5 feet high.

Compost will begin to heat after 2 or 3 days. Keep it moist, but not too wet, and do not disturb for awhile.

After 3 to 4 weeks, fork it over, mixing the parts to obtain uniformity. Fatty animal wastes tend to create bad odors, draw flies and ants; so, try to avoid their use if this will be a problem.

Compost for the garden should be ready from 2 months to 1 year, depending on the time of year, type of materials added, and skill of the composter. When the compost is broken down into a homogenous mixture, and no undecomposed leaves or other material may be seen, it is ready for use.

Submitted by Kim, WA

Pruning Red Raspberries

Red raspberries should be allowed to produce long, unbranched canes rather than branched canes like the black and purple varieties. The new canes are, therefore, unpruned during their first season's growth. At the start of the second season, they are topped to a height that will permit them to support themselves and keep the fruit off the ground. If the plants are supported by stakes or a wire trellis, they can be pruned to permit more fruiting wood.

The old canes die after the crop is matured and they should be removed as early as possible in order to remove sources of disease.

Submitted by KP, WA



Pruning Blackberries

This method is for pruning upright blackberries (not the trailing blackberries which grow on vines that lay directly on the ground);

Tip (cut off the tips) of the new canes at a height of 24 to 30 inches to form branched canes.

As growth starts, remove all dead and weak canes or branches and head (trim the top of) the branches back to a length of 12 to 15 inches or to the degree that the canes can support the expected crop.

After the crop is harvested, remove the 2-year-old wood to stimulate the new canes and remove sources of diseases.

Submitted by KP, WA



Pruning Fruit Trees

One of the keys to producing good quality tree fruit is knowing how to prune. Pruning helps maintain tree health and encourage fruit production. It can even bring a neglected unproductive tree back into fruiting. The aim of pruning during the first several years of tree establishment is to create the shape and the 'backbone' of the tree. After that, pruning serves to correct damage and promote continued healthy and productive growth. The three most common training systems are central leader, modified central leader, and open-center. Intensive production training systems are often called espalier. Espalier usually require supporting structures such as wires, fences, walls, or stakes, but they may also be free standing. There is a wide variety of training forms for espaliered fruit trees. With a few exceptions, prune during the dormant season, from January to March. For routine maintenance pruning of all fruit trees, first remove any suckers growing from the base of the tree. Next, remove any diseased, insect damaged, or broken twigs and branches. Also remove branches that rub against or cross over others and undesirable vertically growing branches.

For apples and pears, the most common home gardening system is the central leader system. Start out by pruning back the whip to about three feet at planting. This will stimulate buds to grow near the top of the cut.

In the second year, select one vertically growing branch to be the central leader and about four other branches to be the scaffold limbs. Select scaffold branches that are at different heights on the trunk, attached at wide angles to the main stem, and spaced evenly around the tree. Use wood spreader blocks where necessary to create wider branch angles in the early years of training. In subsequent years, prune the tree to grow into a pyramid shape.

Open-center training is often used for homegrown peaches and plums. To develop an open-center tree, first cut the whip back to two to three feet high at planting time. Again, this stimulates top buds to grow into branches. In the second year remove all but three to five main branches that are six to eight inches apart, growing from the trunk at wide angles, and spaced evenly around the trunk.

After these first few years, start using pruning methods specific for the species of fruit, as described below, combined with any necessary maintenance pruning. In apples and pears, promote fruiting with spur pruning and renewal pruning techniques. Depending upon the condition of the tree, these techniques can be used alone or in combination.

Fruiting spurs are stubby branchlets that form naturally, but proper pruning can increase spur formation. To prune for spur development, cut back lateral (side) branches arising from scaffold limbs to about four buds. The lower buds on these laterals will become flower buds (rather than vegetative buds) during the growing season. The following winter, cut back all new growth to the uppermost flower bud. A flower bud will be plumper than a vegetative bud. This technique creates a flowering spur that will fruit the following summer and be self-renewing.

Renewal pruning is a useful technique for older or neglected trees. It takes advantage of the tendency of apples and pears to produce flower buds on unpruned two year old wood. Leave strong lateral branches on the outer parts of the tree unpruned during the first year. During the second growing season, these laterals will send out new vegetative growth from the tip. The rest of the buds from the below that point will become flower buds. The following winter, cut back these lateral branch to the topmost flower bud. The lateral will then flower and fruit that year. After fruiting, retain this lateral as an elongated spur, or cut it back to one inch from the base to stimulate the formation of a new lateral branch to repeat the cycle.

In peaches and nectarines, fruit forms on twigs made during the previous summer. The goal is to have new shoots coming each year to bear the following year's fruit. In the dormant season, prune the branch that bore fruit back to one selected new side shoot. As trees come into full bearing age, keep them healthy and well-fertilized so they will produce an abundance of new shoots. It is important to thin out new fruiting shoots to make them evenly spaced, and to allow light to penetrate into the center of the tree. Thinning also prevents overloading that can break branches and promotes new shoot growth for the following year.

Plums and cherries generally need less pruning than other tree fruits. Plums fruit on one year old shoots and spurs that have formed on older wood. Prune plums selectively to maintain an open center and yearly growth of new fruiting wood. Sweet cherries require only maintenance pruning. Sour cherries do best with a modified central leader system. Start training sour cherries when the tree is very young to avoid harmful heavy pruning later on.

Submitted by KP, WA

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Planting Distance for Fruit Trees and Berries

Apples (Standard) - 30 to 40 feet apart each way Pears (Standard) - 16 to 40 feet apart each way Pears (Dwarf) -10 feet apart each way Cherries (Standard) - 18 to 20 feet apart each way Plums (Standard) - 16 to 20 feet apart each way Peaches - 16 to 18 feet apart each way Apricots - 16 to 18 feet apart each way Currants - 3 to 4 feet apart each way Gooseberries - 3 to 4 feet apart each way Raspberries - 3 to 5 feet apart each way Grapes - 8 to 12 feet apart each way

To estimate the number of plants or trees required for an acre, at any given distance, multiply the distance between the rows by the distance between the plants, which will give the number of square feet allotted to each plant, and divide the number of square feet in an acre (43,560) by this number. The result will be the number of plants or trees required.

Submitted by KP, WA

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Eating Your Own Vegetables Year-Round

You can have your own fresh vegetables year round without a greenhouse by planting an early spring garden, planting a fall garden, overwintering hardy vegetables, using you garden for in-ground storage, and growing vegetables that can be stored for long periods.

In the early spring garden, by use of protective plastic covers, heat absorbing mulches and heat trapping devices you can speed growth of many early planted vegetables so that you can begin harvesting in May. By planting a fall garden using cold tolerant varieties you can have fresh vegetables up to the time of a hard freeze. Broccoli, kale, Brussels sprouts, and cabbages often can all last well into the winter. Crops such as carrots and parsnips can be stored right in the ground and if mulched over, can be dug in all but the coldest weather.

Of course, there are many vegetables that can kept for months if they are properly cured and stored at the proper temperature and humidity. All hard winter squashes (butternut, acorn, hubbard, and buttercup for example), sweet potatoes, storage type onions, garlic, and Irish potatoes have the potential for lasting from 3-9 months. Other crops that have storage lives in the 3-12 week range include turnips, rutabagas, winter radishes, pie pumpkins, carrots, parsnips, and Bermuda type onions.

There are also some vegetables that are normally not thought of as being long lived, but with selection of storage type varieties can also be kept for many weeks. Included in this category are 'winter' melons, long-keeper watermelons, long-keeper tomatoes, and storage cabbage.

The last component to your year-round garden is planting overwintering vegetables as mentioned previously and maintaining perennial vegetables such as asparagus and rhubarb.

Submitted by KP, WA



Drying Fruits & Vegetables

You need 3 things for successful home food drying:

Heat - high enough to force out moisture but not hot enough to cook the food
Dry air - to absorb the released moisture
Air movement - to carry the moisture away

Natural drying, outdoors, requires warm days of 90 degrees F (32 degrees C) or more, low humidity, and control of insects. Oven drying or using a food dehydrator are alternatives for small quantities of food. The energy cost of operating an oven is high, however, compared to the cost of operating an electric food dehydrator.

Table 1. Fruits and Vegetables Suitable For Drying



Fruit

Vegetable

Apples

Snap Beans

Apricots

Beets

Bananas

Carrots

Cherries

Sweet Corn

Citrus Peel

Garlic

Coconuts

Horseradish

Figs

Mushrooms

Grapes

Okra

Nectarines

Onions

Peaches

Parsley

Pears

Peas

Pineapples

Hot and Sweet Peppers

Plums

Irish Potatoes

Rhubarb

Pumpkin

Tomatoes



Vegetables may be steam or water blanched as follows.

Steps for steam blanching

Steps for water blanching

Dipping is an alternative to blanching used to prevent fruits such as apples, bananas, peaches, and pears from turning brown. Lemon juice, ascorbic acid, or commercial products containing ascorbic or citric acid may be used for dipping. For instance, dipping sliced fruit pieces in 1 teaspoon of ascorbic acid crystals per cup of water or directly in lemon juice for three to five minutes will prevent browning.

Table 2. Blanching and Drying Times For Selected Vegetables



Vegetable

Blanching Time

Drying Time*

Method

Minutes

Method

Hours

Broccoli

Steam

3 -- 3-1/2

Sun

8 -- 10

Water

2

Oven

3 -- 4-1/2

Snap Beans

Steam

2 -- 2-1/2

Sun

8

Water

2

Oven

3 -- 6

Beets

Cook before drying

Sun

8 -- 10

Oven

3-1/2 -- 5

Carrots

Steam

3 -- 3-1/2

Sun

8

Water

3-1/2

Oven

3-1/2 -- 5

Onions

Not necessary

Sun

8 -- 11

Oven

3 -- 6

Peppers

Not necessary

Sun

6 -- 8

Oven

2-1/2 -- 5

Summer Squash

Steam

2-1/2 -- 3

Sun

6--8

Water

1-1/2

Oven

4 -- 6

Winter Squash

Steam

21/2 - 3

Sun

6 - 8

Water

1

Oven

4 -- 5

Tomatoes

Steam

3

Sun

8 -- 10


* Dried vegetables should be brittle or crisp.

Drying

Natural Sun Drying

NOTE: Sun drying is not recommended in cloudy or humid weather. The temperature should reach 90 degrees F by noon and the humidity should be less than 60 percent.

Oven Drying

Table 3. Blanching and Drying Times For Selected Fruits



Fruit

Blanching Time*

Drying Time**

Method

Minutes

Method***

Hours

Apple

Steam

5

Sun

36 -- 48

Oven

6 -- 12

Apricots

Steam

3 -- 4

Sun

24 -- 36

Water

4 -- 5

Oven

24 -- 36+

Figs

Not necessary

Sun

48 -- 60

Oven

12 -- 20

Grapes: seedless

Not necessary

Sun

36 -- 60

Oven

12 -- 20

Peaches

Steam

8

Sun

36 -- 60

Water

8

Oven

36 -- 48+

Pears

Steam

6

Sun

60

Water

8

Oven

24 -- 36+


* Fruits may be dipped in ascorbic acid or citric acid in place of blanching.
** Test for dryness by cutting the fruit. There should be no moist areas in the center of the fruit.
*** A food dehydrator could be used in place of a range oven due to the extended drying times for most fruits.
+ Drying times for whole fruits. Drying time may be shortened by cutting fruit into slices.

Table 4. Pounds of Dehydrated Food From Fresh Fruits and Vegetables


Fresh Fruits

Dehydrated

apples, 20 lbs.

2 lbs.

peaches, 20 lbs.

1-1/2 - 2-1/2 lbs.

pears, 20 lbs

2-1/4 lbs.

prunes/plums, 20 lbs.

2-1/4 lbs.

Fresh Vegetables

Dehydrated

snap beans, 20 lbs.

1-3/4 lbs.

beets, 20 lbs

2 lbs.

carrots, 20 lbs.

1-3/4 lbs.

onions, 20 lbs.

2-1/2 lbs.

squash (summer), 20 lbs.

1-1/2 - 2 lbs.

tomatoes, 20 lbs.

3/4 lbs.


Pasteurizing and Conditioning of Dried Foods

All sun-dried fruits and vegetables must be pasteurized to destroy insects. Place dried food evenly in shallow trays no more than 1 inch in depth. Vegetables should be heated at 150 degrees F for 30 minutes or 160 degrees F for 10 minutes. Fruits should be heated at 160 degrees F for 15 minutes.

Dried fruits must be conditioned prior to storage. Conditioning is the process of evenly distributing moisture present in the dried fruit to prevent mold growth. Condition dried fruit by placing in a plastic or glass container, sealing and storing for 7 to 10 days. The dried fruit in the containers should be shaken daily to distribute moisture. If condensation occurs, place the fruit in the oven or dehydrator for more drying and repeat the conditioning process.

Storing the Food

Cool dried food should be placed in a closed container that has been washed and dried before storing. Home canning jars are good containers for storing dried foods. Store in a cool, dry, dark place.

Dried foods should be used within 3 to 6 months as they will lose their flavor and color to some extent during storage.

Reconstituting Dried Foods

Dried fruits and vegetables may be reconstituted (restoring moisture) by soaking the food in water. Time for reconstituting will depend on the size and shape of the food and the food itself. Generally most dried fruits can be reconstituted within 8 hours, whereas most dried vegetables take 2 hours to be reconstituted. To prevent growth of microorganisms, dried fruits and vegetables should be reconstituted in the refrigerator. One cup of dried fruit will yield approximately 11/2 cups of reconstituted fruit. One cup of dried vegetable will yield approximately 2 cups of reconstituted vegetable. Reconstituted fruits and vegetables should be cooked in the water in which they were soaking.

How to Harvest and Store Herbs

Most herbs for culinary use are ready to harvest just before flowers appear on the plant. If you harvest them after the flowers appear there will be a reduction in flavor.

Do not cut the herbs too close to the ground, if you leave some lower foliage you may be able to get several cuttings during the growing season.

The best time of day to harvest herbs is in the early morning, just as the sun dries the dew from the leaves. The oils are the strongest in the plants at this time. As soon as the herbs have been cut, waste no time in getting them ready for drying. If the foliage is dirty, wash the leaves, then shake off the excess water. The tops and leaves can be picked off heavy-stemmed herbs like basil. This practice shortens the drying time and gives better flavor and color. For herbs like parsley, leave most of the stems on until after drying.

The most common method of drying herbs is also the most picturesque. The mention of herb drying inevitably conjures up images of colorful bunches of herbs hanging from a nail in someone's kitchen. To dry herbs this way, simply gather the herbs and tie them in small bunches. These should be hung in a warm, dark and airy place for about two weeks until they are dry.

A variation of this would be to put each bunch in a perforated paper bag, then hang it up to dry. This method helps prevent the herbs from getting dusty, but will increase drying time by several days. This is a good way to dry the seed heads of coriander, dill and parsley. Gather seed heads in the early stages of ripening, just as seeds turn from green to gray or brown. Harvest them as soon as the dew dries in the morning for maximum flavor.

Another variation of air drying is to take the herb plants apart and spread those parts on screens to dry. A clean old window screen works well. Prop it up to permit the air to freely circulate through the screen. Place it out of direct sun, but avoid damp locations.

The fastest drying method is oven-drying. Heat oven to 150 degrees F or less. Place herbs on sheets of brown paper. Cut some slits in the paper to maximimze air flow through the herbs. Leave the oven door ajar to allow moisture to escape. In three to six hours the herbs should be crispy-crumbly.

Store your dried herbs in an air-tight container, such as a glass jar. Herbs must be thoroughly dry before sealing in jars. Check after a few hours and again after a few days to make sure there is no evidence of moisture in the container. If condensation develops, remove the herbs and dry them further to prevent molding in storage. Leave the herb foliage whole for storage. The flavor is retained longer when whole leaves are stored. Crumble the leaves when you are ready to use them. Keep dried herbs in a dark place. This preserves the natural color. Remember to label all containers before storage, especially if you're a novice herb user. It's hard to tell all those grey-green leaves apart, and you'll have to rely upon knowing the different fragrances of herbs to identify them.

The flavoring strength of a dried herb declines with time and exposure to air and light. Properly stored dried herbs should retain their flavor about a year_just in time for replacement with your new harvest!

Using herbs in the kitchen can transform an everyday, ordinary meal into an exotic experience for your taste buds. Adding herbs creates a spicy, tangy, and refreshing difference in a recipe. In addition to flavoring specific dishes, herbs add small amounts of vitamins and minerals.

Submitted by KP, WA

Grow Potatoes In a Wire Cage

If you have poor soil, or not much room, you can grow potatoes above the ground in a wire cage or basket;

For each 'cage' you will need a 5 foot piece of chicken wire that is 3 feet high. Connect the ends and stand it upright on the ground.

Line the edges with straw (so the dirt won't fall out), then fill with soil about 1/3 or 1/2 full. Plant your potatoes (up to 3 seed potatoes) in the center.

As the potato plant grows, add more straw lining to hold the dirt in, and add more dirt. Water as needed.

You may be able to get from 20 to 30 pounds of good sized potatoes from one basket.

Submitted by KP, WA